We'll try to find a spare sunbeam.
The Portuguese Paradox
Lately, every time I open a wine magazine, I see headlines like Trendy Alentejo Reds, or Minho is Hot! or Portugal: The Next Big Thing. Or most often: The Portuguese Wine Renaissance. The area that is now Portugal has been growing grapes and making wine for over 4,000 years; talk of ‘discovering’ these wines is a tad ironic. It’s the Portuguese Paradox.
‘Portuguese’ wine began with the Tartessians, then Phoenicians, then Greeks, Romans, etc. A series of advantageous trade agreements with the English led to the hegemony of Port and Madeira. Even Thomas Jefferson worshiped at the altar of Portuguese wine; he shipped hundreds of cases of Madeira and Carcavelos home to Monticello. Portuguese wines were riding high. Then a bug took them down.
Many Europeans were curious about native American grapevines. They shipped some over and phylloxera vastatrix, the grape louse, hitched a ride, devastating most of Europe’s vineyards within a decade. The areas with well-developed bureaucracies and plenty of ready capital were at the forefront of grafting vines onto American rootstock; 1870’s Portugal had neither. With the notable exception of Port, replanting lagged behind other regions, and quality suffered. So how do you ‘discover something that’s existed for 4,000 years? Simple. First, you have to forget about it.
Portuguese wines remained a sleepy little backwater until Portugal joined the EU in 1986, spurring innovation and investment and liberalizing its restrictive production and trade practices. A new generation saw the vast potential in the wealth of native grapes and varied microclimates. Suddenly Portugal was producing more than just Port. Smooth, silky Alentejo reds. Zesty whites from Minho. Complex earthy Dao. Even the Douro-home of Port-is now turning out powerful, velvety red table wines.
But-and this is the REAL Portuguese Paradox-prices have not caught up to the quality. We sell a ton of Portuguese wine for one simple reason: it’s a ridiculous bargain. The $8 wines taste like $15, the $20 wines taste like $35, and so on up the scale. If you want a killer quality:price ratio, drink Portuguese.
Naturally, we want to share these goodies, so we’re holding a tasting. And of course we’re turning it into a contest, with Tony squaring off against Augusto for ‘Favorite Table’ bragging rights. But the real winner in this is you. Drink better, pay less. No paradox there!